DIY Floor Sanding – The Most Common Problems Faced

Everyone likes to save a little money wherever they can pitch in to reduce labour costs when it comes to home renovation work. For the average home handyman there is far more involved than they are generally aware of when attempting the sanding and polishing of the timber floors in their home.

There are many of contributing factors which can lead to an bad or poor quality surface finish, which in most all cases will only be revealed after the coating has been applied and the job completed. 

Any flaws in the process of sanding the floor will be highlighted by the applied coating, combined with reflected light. Certainly one of the most frequent sanding imperfections is ‘stop marks’ where the machine has been left standing while engaging the floor, even for a small percentage of any second, or has not been lifted while it is still in motion while engaging the floor. This is certainly a very easy mistake to alllow for the unskilled operator. The amount of damage this sanding flaw can cause will rely upon the depth of the ‘stop mark’, and occasionally it can be extreme. Tongue and groove wood flooring is generally nineteen millimetres thick, however are only four to five millimetres of timber above the actual tongue and groove itself – this is the amount of timber you can securely work together with when attempting to level your floor. This kind of sanding imperfection usually occurs when the operator centers on a particular separated uneven part of the floor.

The two best tips here are:

Generate straight runs of the machine to the wall structure, and all just how again without stopping.
Start with more coarse sandpaper to flatten the floor before moving to a greater grade paper.
Among other sanding imperfections that are common are ‘chatter marks’. These marks are seen in reflected light as a fine corrugation during the complete floor and are generally caused by machine vibration. This imperfection is more to do with the quality of the machinery that is available for hire. Industrial floor sanding machines employed by pros are not available for hire, and are finely-detailed built and balanced for optimum results. A way to minimise or eliminate chatter marks is to rotary sand the floor as your final mud using 100 grit and finally 150 grit newspaper. These 16 inch size rotary machines are easily available for hire and known as ‘Polyvacs’.

Though there is also texturing imperfections that are possible and can play a role in a poor finish, the texturing is merely one component of the effort.

Foreign material including atmospheric dust particles in top coats are also a very common problem for the D. We. Y. handyman. The careful cleaning down of the ground before coating and especially between coats must be accomplished properly as floor polyurethane is likely to pile around very fine particles particles accentuating them when viewed in reflected light after the coating has dried.

Final coat planning tips:

Blow down any dust settled on ledges and skirting boards and let it settle before vacuuming.
Our final cleaning down method is the trick to a dust compound free top coat. Approach: Completely soak a huge cloth in warm water and wring out as much as possible to let it stay slightly wet. Wrap the rag around a broom head and make use of it as an add rag to acquire the very fine particles the vacuum cleaner will not pick up. It is going to astonish people when they see the amount of very fine particles this process will remove.
Stated here are just a few common imperfections the home renovator will encounter.

The truth is that if your timber floor is sanded and polished properly, it is usually and usually is a prominent feature of the inside of any home. Depending on the standard of natural light present, a poorly sanded floor will almost certainly be an eye sore.

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